content

Rappelz Forums

What Pet are You?

The Breeder's Guide

Discuss the Holy Warrior, Cleric, Breeder and their advanced classes here.

The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 8th, 2008, 9:00 pm

Breeder's Guide

^.^

The Breeder's Guide

by ZooZoo



This Guide is currently under revision to reflect Epic 6 considerations. All italicized text has not been revised for Epic 6 and may be inaccurate.

I have written this guide to help new Breeders learn the ins and outs of their job. Please reply with suggestions, improvements and requests.



Introduction

In Rappelz Epic 6, the Deva Breeder is one of the most versatile jobs. Pets at the hand of a Breeder are very powerful, and with the right strategy and knowledge, the Breeder can become a one-man army. The job offers pet buffs, healing for both pets and character, debuffs and the ability to combine various skill options to suit any number of situations. In addition to a wide variety of character skills, Rappelz contains many different pets that all offer different abilities and strengths.

The Breeder has perhaps the most options for customization of any class. For this reason there are a lot of players asking "How do I do it right?" There are many ways to play the class right, and finding the right style is key. This guide explains some of the most common aspects of playing the SoulBreeder. Take it with a grain of salt and keep an open mind for experimenting and trying new techniques.

Some jobs are easy to play and some are more difficult. The Breeder is one of the more involved jobs to play. Any pet class requires a lot of micromanagement and the ability to use player skills, use pet skills, keep buffs running, and stay alive while in battle. The Breeder requires the most micromanagement of any pet class.

The Breeder can be quite an expensive class to play. Pets are some of the most expensive items in the game. In addition to equipping your character you must buy and upgrade equipment for your pets too. Currently, Breeders are a very desirable class to play, and cards for their skills are expensive relative to other classes. The Breeder can be slow going as a "first character" for a player just starting to play Rappelz, but there are still ways to play a Breeder on a budget.




Equipment Selection

The Breeder specializes in maces and staves. The Breeder's Weapon Mastery skill increases the physical attack of the mace and staff, and Magical Training will increase the Breeder's magic attack when casting attack spells and creature heals.

The choice between One-handed Mace, Two-handed Mace, and Two-handed Staff is one of the more defining build selections for the SoulBreeder.

Two-handed Maces offer very powerful attack skills and melee strength and have a decent healing power in a pinch. They are most effective in PvP and against monsters with higher defense or when fighting unbuffed. Two-handed maces are used by many pets, and this is both good and bad. Bad, because the Two-handed Mace is one of the most expensive weapons, and good because it makes an easy hand-me-down weapon for your pets and lets you swap equipment between your character and pets.

One-handed Maces offer fast attack speed and good melee strength. They don't offer as much damage on attack skills, but the Breeder has many other areas to spend the mana. One-handed maces offer the lowest pet healing power of any weapon. Minor Shining Weapon and pet unities with P.Attack as well as Strength rings are recommended for players opting to use the One-handed Mace. Wearing a shield allows the Breeder to be slightly more defensive, though in most instances with this setup, the Breeder's pets will be taking the majority of the damage.

Two-handed Staffs offer powerful creature heals and ranged magic attacks. Many Epic 6 Breeders choose to use the magic Breeder build with a Two-handed Staff and Red Pixie or similar magical pet. This provides very fast solo field farming and a safe distance in PvP.

The Breeder's armor provides physical defense and magical defense, but not a lot of either, relative to warrior or hunter class armor (more p. defense) or a mage class armor (more m. defense). Most PvE (Player vs. Environment, meaning monsters) damage in Rappelz is physical, so the p. defense attribute is more desirable in most situations. Pass damage helps to compensate for the weak armor defense and combined with a healing pet can make the Breeder an incredibly sturdy character.

For soulstones, Vitality is one of the most common for all builds. It adds HP and P. Defense, which the Breeder does not have a lot of naturally. Strength boosts your character's melee damage. Dexterity will improve your accuracy if you are fighting against monsters of a much higher level. Agility can be used in combination with Vitality to further reduce the damage that the character takes. Since there are relatively few other things to add Agility to a Breeder, using Agility alone will not do as much to help reduce damage as Vitality alone, and many players consider Agility to be a total waste. Intelligence will increase your mana pool, add to your pet heals, and add spell damage. Wisdom helps spell attacks and debuffs land more often against higher-leveled monsters and helps in PvP situations against magic.




Pet Selection

Since any high level pet from another character will do well, the comments in this section will consider pets that are raised with the Breeder and are the same level as the character. This section will give a very brief description of each pet but will not elaborate too much on any one pet. This section will not discuss Rare teir pets or higher.

When choosing pets it is important to remember that typically one pet will be tanking and one pet will be supporting. The tanking pet needs to have a significant amount of physical defense and may need to use the Breeder's skills that support p. defense such as Vitality Support and Boost. The support pet is the pet that will be dual summoned and may have special skills and abilities that help the fighting situation. Some pets provide sleeps, stuns, holds, fear, debuffs to the enemy's defense or accuracy, etc. Remember that only the pet selected from the card formation (Alt-R) page can use its skills, so it may be useful to focus the tanking pet's skills on passives to increase its toughness and focus the support pet's skills on actives that help fill areas where the Breeder is lacking such as crowd control. The support pet may also be built to just provide additional damage and help take down the enemy faster.

Turtles and Orcs are especially helpful because their buffs can be applied to the Breeder and the main tanking pet, even if the pets are only dual summoned to buff and then returned to the formation.

Turtles are the best of the NPC-purchasable pets. They have incredible hp and defense and are geared towards tanking. All NPC-purchasable pets gain the wound lick skill which boosts your heals greatly. This allows you to use far less mp healing the pet, and can take the pet into areas like the dungeon where the incoming damage is much higher than your healing could allow for normally. The turtle's most useful skill is it's defense buff. It gives +75 at low levels and +150 at high levels. Even without any levels of the dual summoning skill, a Breeder can keep a level 40+ or 80+ turtle in formation to summon, buff the tank pet and then unsummon.

Poultry focus on evasion and debuff abilities. They also get the wound lick skill. Chickens get a self-toggle to increase damage and have skills for increasing attack speed. Though they have passive skills for taking advantage of hunter-type armor, if a chicken is going to be tanking, it will be best to use the warrior armor. Chickens get a run speed self-buff.

Panteras are geared toward physical damage, but lack the hp and defense to handle a lot of damage. In the field a pantera can be a decent pet with a decent armor and weapon, but are not widely used for tanking due to the mp expense of healing them constantly. Panteras get a run speed passive which can make them the fastest pet at high levels.

The Yeti is another good tanking pet. It gains a number of stun skills, and some minor party healing. The yeti has very strong defense and vitality abilities but has very weak attack ability. Yetis are desired for PvP due to their stuns. The yeti also has a speed self-buff which is useful.

The Orc has the highest damage output of the melee pets. It has many skills that add additional damage onto its already strong physical attacks. The orc has very decent defensive abilities as well. The orc gains a Strong Warrior buff at level 80 which adds +110 p. defense and p. attack. With excellent gear, the orc can allow the Breeder to solo dungeons at a very fast rate. In the field and on lower leveled characters, the orc provides the fastest possible killing speed. The orc has a speed self-buff.

The Skeleton has high damage output and debuff abilities. The skeleton, like the chicken, focuses on agility, and with good agility stones, its dodge rate can help to compensate for its lack of defense and hp. Skeletons make good secondary pets due to their debuffs, and are good in PvP with their fear skill.

The Siren provides debuffs and is physically weaker than any of the other physical-attack-based drop-only pets. It's whip attack deals very high damage and it has a number of sleeps, holds and fears that it can control the enemies with. Sirens make good support pets due to their arsenal of support skills.

The Blue Pixie is a healing pet. Most of its skills center around healing and healing over time. It has party Area of Effect heals and at later levels a fear skill. Most Breeders do not use blue pixies and instead rely on their own healing abilities.

The Red Pixie is the most offensive pet in the game. Its ranged attack magic is strong but will tend to pull aggro fast and die. The red pixie has several fast recharging attack spells and at high levels has a fear ability.




Skills Selection

The Breeder's skills are divided into a few different categories: Pet power enhancers, player special attacks, debuffs, pet healing and pet resurrections. Generally, a player has the choice of focusing on the power of his pet and the power of his Breeder.

Since the Breeder has the very best pet healing and support skills of any class in the game, the natural choice for most players will be to focus on making the pets strong by choosing to maximize Supports, Boosts, Creature Mastery, Divine Claw and other pet enhancing skills.

Most players will secondarily increase the power of the Breeder to give the character enough survival power to stay alive and just enough attack power to make a useful contribution alongside the pets in battle.

Most players put the least job points towards magical attacks, debuffs and player attack skills. These are generally not as useful for the mana they require as most mana will be used in running the Support and summoning, buffing, and healing the pets which are providing the largest contribution to the battle.

Skills are divided up between the first and second job. The first job, Breeder, gives the player basic control over a single pet with all of the skills needed to increase it's power, heal it, and maintain the battle in all aspects. The first job provides all of the skills needed to increase the Breeder's character power. The Breeder as a first job is average in power and ability.

There is only one second job for the Breeder to choose. The Soul Breeder expands on the first job skills by adding additional levels of almost every skill and adds several key skills that multiply the Breeder's power. The Soul Breeder unlocks the full power of the class. A Soul Breeder becomes a one-man army with the power to fully support two pets at all times and have the ability to significantly increase the power of friendly and neutral pets using buffs.

For almost all skills only half of the levels are available with the first job. During the second job, the rest of the levels are unlocked.

Note: All statistical information reported here is gathered from Alizarin HQ. Alizarin HQ is a very important reference site for Rappelz information and should be given the full credit it deserves for the information listed here. My own contribution is limited to the comments and suggestions for each skill. You may visit Alizarin HQ at this address: http://rappelz.alizarinhq.com/

First Job Skills

1. Armor Mastery - This increases your physical defense by 4 per level with 10 levels possible. It adds a small but important amount of armor to your total. It should be upgraded but is not one of the most important skills.

1. Creature Mastery - Creatures' stats are applied at 70% for all characters. Each level of creature mastery increases that amount by 3% for a total of 100% at level 10 and 130% at level 20. This is one of the most important skills for making your pets strong.

1. Magical Training Mastery - This increases your magic attack by 5 per level with 20 levels. The first level increases m. attack by 15. This skill only affects creature healing and spell damage.

1. Mind Defense - Each point increases magic defense by 3. There are 20 levels.

1. Tamer Weapon Mastery - Each point increases the physical attack power of a staff or mace by 5. The first level increases p. attack by 15 and attack speed by 5. There are 20 levels total. This skill should be upgraded as job points allow, but skills that increase your creatures' power should be considered first.

5. Creature Breeding - Each point increases the experience gain of summoned pets by +5% and unsummoned pets by +1%. There are 10 levels. This is an important skill for players raising pets below their own level. Dual summoning increases the pet leveling rate because each summoned pet gets the full benefit of Creature Breeding.

5. Energy Beat - This is a low-damage basic attack spell with a very quick cast and cooldown and medium range. This skill is good to use for pulling monsters. Very few breeders will use this for inflicting damage. There are 20 levels.

5. Strength Support - The supports are toggles which give a constant effect and drain MP while active. All pets owned by the Breeder will benefit from the Supports. Supports are among the most useful skills Breeders have and the main support should be maxed ASAP. Strength support gives +2 strength and +10 p. attack (for a total of +14 p. attack) per level with 10 levels total. This skill is useful for melee attacking creatures who do not have trouble staying alive.

5. Vitality Support - This support gives +2 vitality and +10 defense (for a total of +14 defense and +60 hp) per point with 10 levels total. This skill is useful for tanking pets who need additional toughness in order to minimize damage received.

10. Creature HP Expansion - This skill increases all pets' maximum HP by 6% per point with 50 levels total.

10. Divine Smash - This is a basic skill attack with 10 levels total. Most players will find that their MP is best spent in other areas than character attacks.

10. Flash - Flash is a debuff that reduces accuracy for 15 seconds with a cool of 30 seconds. It is useful on bosses. Each level reduces accuracy by -2 with 10 levels total.

10. Intelligence Support - This support gives +2 intelligence and +10 m. attack (for a total of +15 m. attack and +60 mp) per level with 10 levels total. This skill is useful for magic using pets only.

10. Mental Support - This support gives +2 wisdom and +10 m. defense (for a total of 14 m. defense, 4/5 m. accuracy and 1 m. resistance) per level with 10 levels total. This Support will make pets a little more resistant to magical attacks and will give some pets such as sirens a slightly higher chance to land spells. This skill is mostly useless..

15. Creature Healing - This is the first creature heal that a Breeder gets. It heals a base of 40 hp with an additional 70 + (0.3 * m. attack) per level with a total of 20 levels. This skills uses up a significant amount of mp and gives a large one-shot heal. This skill should be used in rough situations and not as a main heal because it is so inefficient in MP consumption.

15. Creature MP Expansion - This skill increases all of the Breeder's pets' maximum MP. It has 5 levels total.

15. Minor Healing - This is a small self-heal. It heals 130 + 85 per level with 5 levels total. The spell is not efficient on MP use. It is also not affected by m. attack.

15. Organic Resistance - This buff decreases the amount of damage a pet takes from organic attackers including players, beasts (most monsters), dragons, and ain. There are 6 levels of this skill. There can only be one type of resistance on any pet. If a higher level resistance exists on a pet, it cannot be removed by casting a lower level resistance of another type. The resistances are vital in reducing the incoming damage to your pets. Organic is the most widely used resistance as most creatures fall into this category. All resistances can be cast on any friendly or neutral player's pet.

15. Shining Cluster - This self buff adds additional damage to the Breeder's skill attacks. There are 6 levels of the skill. The skill adds 11 damage + 22 per level. There are 10 levels of this skill. The skill is only useful if the Breeder uses many of his or her skill attacks. It adds a blue aura below the player's feet which looks cool.

20. Creature Restoration - This heals any friendly or neutral pet over time. This is the most MP efficient pet heal the Breeder has and should be the one used most often. It heals for 28 HP per level plus 30% of the Breeder's m. attack. There are 10 levels of the skill. Even though this skill is more efficient in mana cost than Creature Healing, high levels of this skill will still tax the player's MP. Level 4 through 6 of this skill is generally enough to heal most general combat damage.

20. Divine Cross - This is a medium damage player attack skill that strikes the enemy twice. There are 20 levels of the skill.

20. Inorganic Resistance - This resistance reduces incoming damage from undead enemies. It is mostly used against skeletons and zombie type monsters. Lost mines is the main dungeon that has many of these types of creatures. There are 6 levels of this skill.

20. Minor Shining Weapon - This self-buff adds additional damage to the Breeder's basic attacks. The skill adds +4 damage per level and has 20 levels. It is a moderately useful skill to have, but is not the largest source of damage for the Breeder. There should not be too many JP invested into this skill until other damage areas are increased sufficiently.

25. Creature Regeneration - This passive increases the HP and MP regeneration rate for all formed pets. Even pets that are not summoned will regenerate HP and MP. Each level adds +10% HP and MP regeneration. There are 10 levels.

25. Divine Claw - This pet buff adds light damage to a creature's basic attacks. The skill adds 8 damage + 26 per level. There are 6 levels of the skill. This skill is most effective on creatures with fast attack speeds such as chickens, skeletons and pets using daggers. It is an effective source of damage for the Breeder and should be learned quickly.

25. Spirit Resistance - This resistance reduces incoming damage from angels, demons and spirit type enemies. There are 6 levels of this skill. This skill is the second most useful of the resistances.

30. Creature Control - This passive increases the amount of creatures the Breeder may have formed. The player may form 1 pet per level of this skill. There are 5 levels. This skill is useful when a Breeder has many different creatures to summon for different purposes or wishes to level up many creatures at once.

30. Creature Resurrection - This skill revives a slain pet and recovers some lost experience. The experience recovered is 15% plus 1% per level. There are 10 levels of this skill.

30. Elemental Resistance - This resistance reduces incoming elemental type damage. Since elemental damage only applies to skill and spell attacks, this resistance is the least useful of all resistances. It reduces 3% damage per level. There are 10 levels.

30. Frost Spear - This debuff shoots a medium-ranged blast that reduces the enemy's attack speed. The speed is reduced by 15% plus 1% per level. There are 10 levels. The skill does a moderate amount of damage. This skill is not used very often due to the MP cost and short 7 second duration. It is slightly useful on bosses.

30. Summon Creature - This skill is used to summon creatures from the formation. Level one has a cast time of 7.2 seconds and each additional level reduces the cast time by 0.8 seconds. There are 5 levels of the skill.

40. Acid Spray - This skill reduces the enemy's physical defense and deals negligible damage over time. The p. defense is reduced by 3 per level with 20 levels total. The effect is slightly increased physical damage to the target. The skill is useful on bosses.

40. Celestial Offering - This skill sacrifices the Breeder's creature to regain his own HP and MP. There are 10 levels. The skill has a 30 minute cool time so this skill is really for emergencies only. The pet does not lose experience in the death and can be resurrected afterward with a scroll or other method.

40. Creature Taming - This skill attempts to tame a creature by using an empty creature card. The creature being tamed must match one of the creatures listed on the empty card. The creature being tamed must be at full health before the spell is cast and must be killed after the spell is done being cast. Any damage done to the creature during the casting of the spell will fail the taming attempt. When a taming attempt is being conducted a message will inform all party members of the attempt after the spell has been fully cast. When the monster has been killed another message will inform all party members of the success or failure of the attempt. This skill is only useful for those who wish to tame drop-only pet cards. Basic NPC-purchasable pets have a very high rate of success and generally can be tamed using level 1 taming. There are 10 levels of this skill.

40. Eternal Lifeguard - This skill allows the Breeder to resurrect his pet after it dies with a little HP and MP. The pet still loses experience in the death and the HP and MP recovered is very small. There are 10 levels of this skill.

40. Pass Damage - This skill transfers part of the damage received by the Breeder to his or her most recently summoned creature. This skill consumes the player's MP while it is active. This is the most effective skill for reducing incoming damage to the Breeder and is very useful when running in the dungeon, fighting PvP or taking significant damage. When the Breeder is not the target of significant damage (if his or her pet is tanking well) this skill should be turned off to save MP. There are 10 levels of this skill.


Second Job Skills

10. Dual Summoning - This passive skill delays the unsummoning of a pet after a second pet has been summoned. Normally when a second pet is summoned the first pet will return after 10 seconds. Each point of this skill delays the unsummoning for an additional 7 seconds. There are 10 levels of the skill. At level 8 (66 seconds), the dual summoning delay lasts longer than the cooldown for the Summon Creature skill. At this level, two pets can be kept out constantly. This is the first level at which the skill fully unlocks the potential for true dual summoning.

There are two ways to dual summon. The first is to allow the first pet summoned to return at the end of the dual summon timer. This can be considered the lazy man's dual summoning. With this method, all buffs will be lost every time the first creature is unsummoned but it requires the least attention to perform. The second method is to unsummon and recast the second pet just before the end of the dual summon timer. This allows one pet to keep its buffs continually while the second pet is resummoned again and again. This method requires level 8 or higher of dual summoning and takes diligence in order to unsummon the creature in the small window of time between the Summon Creature cooldown and the dual summon timer. Levels 9 and 10 are useful because they extend this window to 13 and then 20 seconds, giving the player ample time to fit in the resummon during battle.

The resummoned second pet can be buffed every time it is summoned, but this requires MP and attentiveness of the player in order to successfully rebuff every minute during battle.

35. Celestial Sanctuary - This skill recovers a percent of any friendly target's HP and MP. The skill has 5 levels and a 10 minute cooldown. This is an especially useful skill for giving clerics or other players some extra HP and MP in a sticky situation.

35. Strength Boost - This creature buff adds 20 strength and 100 p. attack plus 2 strength and 10 p. attack per level (140 plus 14 p. attack per level total). There are 5 levels. Boosts may be cast on any friendly or neutral pet. Only one type of Boost may be cast on a pet and only an equal or higher level Boost can replace a different type of Boost. This Boost is useful for adding melee damage to all pets in a party.

35. Vitality Boost - This creature buff adds 20 vitality and 100 p. defense plus 2 vitality and 10 p. defense per level (140 plus 14 p. defense and 600 plus 60 HP per level total). There are 5 levels. This Boost is useful for making pets more durable. Pixies especially can be made a little more sturdy with this Boost.

35. Wrath of Heaven - This spell removes buffs from an enemy pet. There are 5 levels of the skill and at higher levels more buffs are removed. The uses of this skill are of course strictly limited to PvP and even at that, the skill is very narrow in scope.

40. Intelligence Boost - This creature buff adds 20 intelligence and 100 m. attack plus 2 intelligence and 10 m. attack per level (140 plus 14 m. attack and 600 plus 60 MP per level total). There are 5 levels. This Boost will give magic-using pets an m. attack bonus and extend their mana pool a little. While it can make Red and Blue Pixies more powerful, it can also cause them to draw more aggro and therefore die more often. It is important to keep that in mind when buffing other players' pets. Many players would rather their pixies recieve vitality instead to keep them alive longer.

40. Wisdom Boost - This creature buff adds 20 wisdom and 100 m. defense plus 2 wisdom and 10 m. defense per level (140 plus 14 m. defense per level; 8 plus 4/5ths m. accuracy per level; 10 plus 1 m. resistance per level total). There are 5 levels. This Boost will make pets a little more resistant to magical attacks and will give some pets such as sirens a slightly higher chance to land spells. This skill is mostly useless.




Soloing with the Breeder and a Tanking Pet

The Breeder is very adept at soloing. Among all classes the Breeder is the closest to a one-man army. With one to two pets, healing, buffs, resurrections, debuffs, and power increasing passives for the pets and the Breeder, a player can fill all vital roles of a party.

To solo, a Breeder must be sustainable. To be sustainable, the Breeder has to deal with all incoming damage through healing, and also replenish all MP used for healing. If the Breeder provides insufficient healing, the pet dies. If the Breeder cannot deal with the mana expenditure of healing, he runs out of mana and either stops to rest or watches as his pet dies.

There is a simple chain by which the incoming damage is dealt with.

Pet Defense and Agility > Pet HP Regeneration > Healing > Mana

1) Pet Defense and Agility - This is the first and most important step in the chain. The pet defense must be made as high as possible in order to deal with incoming damage. Some pets are agility based and can benefit from increasing the pet's agility, but most pets will get the most benefit from increasing vitality and will not need additional agility to be sustainable.

The Breeder has a few skills to help with this step of the chain. Vitality Support and Boost greatly improve the pet's defense. These are the two most important skills to use when this area of the chain is lacking.

The next thing to consider is the tanking pet's armor. It should be fully upgraded as soon as possible.

The main pet should be a tanking-type pet. Orcs, Turtles and Yetis do the best. Chickens and Skeletons are agility-based pets and will do well as tanks at higher levels. The tanking pet should have defense skills maximized. Overbreed Vitality may be a useful option if it fits into the pet's build. O.B. Stats give the least benefit per JP point of any pet skill, so consider this last.

2) Pet HP Regeneration - This is a passive area that will help to slightly reduce the amount of healing needed. The Breeder gains a pet HP and MP regeneration skill that should be maxed. The pet will also benefit from having its HP regeneration passive maxed.

3) Pet Healing - This is the second most important area. Creature Restoration should be the first choice for healing most wounds a pet incurs during battle. Creature Healing can be used in a pinch if the Restoration is on cooldown or will just not cover the full amount of healing needed. Keep in mind that the more Creature Healing that is used, the quicker the Breeder's MP will run out. It is wise not to use a maximum strength Creature Restoration unless it is needed. Any HP recovered after the pet is maxed is just wasted MP. It is good to keep one mid-level Restoration and one maximum-level Restoration on the quick bar.

If the pet healing is still not sufficient enough, a Breeder can try keeping a staff on hand to swap to before casting a Restoration or Healing. This will be a little cumbersome to swap weapons before and after casting, but it can help squeeze a little more HP out of the healing.

4) Mana - Once everything is said and done, the final area that a Breeder must maintain is his mana. If the Breeder's mana runs out he will not be sustainable any longer. MP potions and scrolls should be stockpiled during DPs for use during soloing. MP groceries should be used to maximize MP recovery.

It is important to remember the above chain. Once a breeder has reached sustainability and begins to exceed certain areas of the chain, the player can swap vitality-increasing skills for strength-increasing skills and start to swap out defensive oriented play styles for offensive oriented play styles. This versatility is what makes the Breeder a very strong class for any situation. After a Breeder learns the basic Strength or Vitality Support he will use most often, it is important to learn the other one and keep both on hand to adjust for various situations. A Breeder cannot choose strength until the defense is covered sufficiently, but once it is he or she can start to use offensive skills instead.




Soloing in the Dungeon

This is a tricky area to master. Breeders with the right equipment, the right build and the right knowledge can succeed alone in the dungeon without additional buffs from Clerics or Kahunas.

To start out, you should start in an area with just one monster. Put on all defensive skills (Vitality Support and Boost) and solo the monster and let it respawn. Once a single monster is easy to solo, the Breeder can move onto areas where he can pull single monsters one after another. Boss rooms are especially good for this if the boss is not around or is in a corner of the room. The reason is that the monsters are more spread out here. Hallways are another good spot to find small groups of monsters with more space between each one. Patrols will occasionally hop into the mix. Some very powerful Breeders or Breeders with pets higher than their own level can venture into speed rooms to farm the dungeon. Generally, a Breeder will want to be in a relatively safe spot and pull monsters to his area.

It is important to have a way out if the situation gets hairy. With the logout timer, the only way to successfully log out in a dungeon is to get all mobs onto your pet and then run the pet far into the dungeon while you log out or pop off a scroll for town. This is quite tricky. It is good to play around a vacant hallway so that if you need to log out, you can log in where there are few monsters waiting for you.

It is also important to carry enough supplies into a dungeon. Depending on your rate of killing, large numbers of MP scrolls and potions may or may not be needed as you may find them fast enough to replenish those used. MP groceries are useful to have as are HP items. The Breeder's Minor Healing is not MP-efficient so if an item can be used for healing, this is preferable.

Sometimes a Breeder may not be powerful enough to solo in a dungeon. If this is the case, just try to DP some and build up your skills and come back in a few levels and try again. Breeders who choose to fully overbreed their first job by reaching job level 50 may find that they are a bit weak in dungeons during the first 10 levels after job leveling. Also, dual summoning greatly helps dungeon soloing as it nearly doubles the damage your pets output meaning you can take down monsters in much less time.





Overbreeding Stats

canadianeh wrote:Here are the added stats that a Breeder gets per JLv.
41- Vit +1, Int +1, Wis +1
42- Nothing
43- Str +1, Vit +1, Agi +1, Dex +1
44- Int +1, Wis +1, Luck +1
45- Str +1, Agi +1, Dex +1
46- Vit +1, Int +1, Wis +1
47- Nothing
48- Str +1, Vit +1, Agi +1, Int +1, Wis +1, Dex +1
49- Nothing
50 Str +1, Vit +1, Agi +1, Int +1, Wis +1, Dex +1, Luck +1

In total
Str +4 Int +4
Vit +5 Wis +4
Agi +4 Dex +4
Luck +2
Last edited by cammy537 on September 3rd, 2009, 1:46 am, edited 15 times in total.
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby mallom » February 9th, 2008, 4:51 am

Great guide, simple, easy to read and very useful :D . I already read your orc guide and i think is great too :D . Please keep making these guides :mrgreen:
User avatar
mallom
Poultry
 
Posts: 4
Joined: October 7th, 2007, 2:42 pm

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cushthezoo » February 9th, 2008, 9:35 am

Shorter than I thought it'd be :D . Great guide. I vote for a sticky!!

In the guide you said this "Most Breeders do not use blue pixies and instead rely on their own healing abilities." and that'd be me. I have heard from people I've versed at the arena that breeder + bpix is hard to beat because we can heal each other. Thought you'd like to know if you add a guide on breeder PvP(if you are going to put one in). I think it would help breeders out there that are getting into seiges more often(like me).
neocash wrote:Go outside.
User avatar
cushthezoo
Harpy
 
Posts: 485
Joined: January 30th, 2007, 5:12 pm
Location: Ohio

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 9th, 2008, 9:51 am

PvP is not my area of expertise. I do know that most smart players will attempt to take out any pixie they see right off. The Breeder may make the pixie quite tough, but unless you are using Vitality Support or Boost (most aren't in a duel) the pixie will still fall within 1 stun. I have a feeling you will get more bang for your buck using a pet with a lot of damage or stuns to help lock down the enemy rather than using 1 of your pet choices to heal yourself. Axe + pixie could do some damage though.

Breeders are really rough to try to take down 1v1 anyways, so I would imagine that unless you're fighting someone who really knows what they are doing, it's going to be hard to lose unless you play like a complete idiot. For this reason I don't think I would attempt to make a guide to Breeder PvP. It's like making an Epic 3 guide for Archer PvP. They just owned so much that it would kind of be insulting.

Thanks for the sticky vote! I'm hoping it gets stickied too.
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cafedel » February 9th, 2008, 12:11 pm

its really a great guide,hope it will get sticked oO
cafedel
Poultry
 
Posts: 5
Joined: February 4th, 2008, 8:33 am

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cushthezoo » February 9th, 2008, 3:27 pm

hmmm you bring up a good point. Pixies aren't exactly able to take too much damage. Especially with an orc and warrior class after them. Although with the addition of luna chips, breeder+rpixie is as painful, if not more. Warriors don't stand a chance :) . If only breeders had stun mace back.
neocash wrote:Go outside.
User avatar
cushthezoo
Harpy
 
Posts: 485
Joined: January 30th, 2007, 5:12 pm
Location: Ohio

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 9th, 2008, 6:05 pm

Breeders don't want Epic 3 back, trust me (=
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cushthezoo » February 10th, 2008, 12:10 pm

I liked bumming buffs for my pet and solo'ing dungeons all over the place forever. CLL + rpw + tons of def/att/atkspd/mp buffs + aggro buff = super yeti tank :mrgreen: . But yeah now I bum huna and cleric buffs and solo dungeon mobs 10 lvls higher than me for half an hour.
neocash wrote:Go outside.
User avatar
cushthezoo
Harpy
 
Posts: 485
Joined: January 30th, 2007, 5:12 pm
Location: Ohio

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby fionnmaccumhaill » February 10th, 2008, 1:13 pm

cushiondude wrote:I liked bumming buffs for my pet and solo'ing dungeons all over the place forever. CLL + rpw + tons of def/att/atkspd/mp buffs + aggro buff = super yeti tank :mrgreen:

That was a nasty exploit, and I'm glad they got rid of it. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Image
Bahamut Server

~Flame away, just don't expect me to stroke your e-peen in return~
fionnmaccumhaill
Genie
 
Posts: 1184
Joined: March 24th, 2007, 11:39 am

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby steelheart88 » February 10th, 2008, 1:32 pm

Thanks a ton for the guide Cammy, I wish you had written it when I started my breeder . . . but I've survived well enough up until now.

I have a few suggestions to add, as well as a few questions to ask.

First, in terms of suggestions, make sure you mention that every breeder should have a level 40+ tortus in formation once they get creature formation level 2. As my main (semi)tanking pet is a pantera, i summon the tortus every 10 minutes, apply its defense buff to me and my kitty, and then unsummon it. This helps amazingly with farming and dungeon soloing, and is useful in a dp if nobody else has a tortus. You could just as easily do the same thing with an 80+ orc, but tortuses are much cheaper.

Also, could you post your stone build for us to see? I personally use 6 vitality, 4 strength, and 2 intelligence stones, and the only place it falls short is in pvp versus mage-type characters.

Now, for questions, do you know what higher levels of wound lick do, and is it worth investing points in them for my (semi)tanking kitty? I already know that I need points in strong fur, which I unfortunately did not invest in . . .

And, what would you say to my combo of pantera+red pixie? Or, what would you think of pantera+chicken? Just curious, and I figure a high level breeder like you would know best XD.

Also, what cards would you suggest prioritizing? I have quite a few cards at +2, and have creature heal ready to go +3 when I get another ancient cube (I have 3 +2 cards), and Organic Resist and Divine Claw are next on my list. Do you have any suggestions on what I should try to get to +3 next?


Thanks again for your sweet guide! (Check out my champion guide too if you're bored) Perhaps I will see you sometime in Salamander.
Ask for Team Duels and a Ranking system here!

Image
Destiny Guild
*Insert witty quote here*

~new siggy still in the works~
User avatar
steelheart88
Salamander
 
Posts: 531
Joined: October 30th, 2007, 4:19 pm

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby fionnmaccumhaill » February 10th, 2008, 2:08 pm

Really nice guide, but I have a few minor issues with some of the points.

The Breeder can be quite an expensive class to play. Pet cards are some of the most expensive items in the game. In addition to equipping your character you must buy and upgrade equipment for your pets too.

That's a fallacy, you get out the product of your effort put in. A breeder only needs one good weapon and one good armour piece, both of them go to your tank pet. Your second pet can have crappy armour and a merely reasonable weapon, the same with you the breeder - pimping summoner armour yields a fairly small benefit, meaning you save money, your personal damage should be less than your pet, meaning you save money on upgrading that mace. Warrior classes can spend outrageous amounts of money on their armour and weapons - ESPECIALLY TANKS. A breeder's orc/tortus/yeti can achieve much higher pdef than a tank class with inferior equipment simply because of passives and breeder toggles/buffs as such a breeder can solo easily without crazy equipment or higher level pets. Also Tortus (tank) + Poultry/Pantera (dd) is an extremely viable dual-summon combo, unlike some classes a breeder doesn't need a blue pixie to survive (sin/sh) or a red pixie to do any damage (DM/CM/WL).

Shields will provide a little extra p. defense

They add no pdef, only Block Defence (when they successfully block, which is relatively rare given the lack of shield mastery)

Pet heals will be significantly less as well

I personally don't ascribe to this theory, in E3 yes matk was a significant factor in heals, but there is a minimal difference in heal amount even between a 1h mace and a 2h staff in E4. Spells of all kinds in E4 use only a small portion of matk to calculate their power.

Turtles are the best of the NPC-purchasable pets

Best pdef-tank yes, but they are a 2 trick pony unfortunately, they buff and they tank extremely well, but for other aspects of the game other pets outshine them.

The Yeti is another good tanking pet

I used to think so too, but the higher my yeti gets, the more I see him as a healer/cc'er/support pet that can tank an add if I get into trouble when soloing - orcs and tortuses are by far the best pdef (pet) tanks in the game. Don't get me wrong however, my yeti is my support dd of choice because he offers so much more skillswise than a pure high pdef dd like an orc.

O.B. Stats give the least benefit per JP point of any pet skill, so consider this last.

This is not 100% true for agility on a Poultry/skeleton/siren where +10 agility can add +10 evasion in evo 2, and more in evo 3. An evasion tank needs Blessing of Agility imo especially if you are using it against higher level mobs where every ounce of evasion you can squeeze out will be worthwhile. If your poultry/skel/siren isn't tanking then this blessing is unnecessary though nice just to see how high you can push it's evasion :D
Image
Bahamut Server

~Flame away, just don't expect me to stroke your e-peen in return~
fionnmaccumhaill
Genie
 
Posts: 1184
Joined: March 24th, 2007, 11:39 am

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 10th, 2008, 7:21 pm

kamelot07 wrote:First, in terms of suggestions, make sure you mention that every breeder should have a level 40+ tortus in formation once they get creature formation level 2.

This is quite useful. Even Breeders without any dual summoning can use this trick to buff any other pet. Good tip.

kamelot07 wrote:Also, could you post your stone build for us to see? I personally use 6 vitality, 4 strength, and 2 intelligence stones, and the only place it falls short is in pvp versus mage-type characters.

I use 50% strength 50% vitality. I used to use 50% vitality 50% agility but I was disappointed in PvP, so I changed to strength. 2 Int stones won't do too much for your heals, since only 1/3 of your int goes into the healing.

kamelot07 wrote:do you know what higher levels of wound lick do

They increase the hp regeneration during the effect time. They do not increase the healing bonus during the effect time. I have never had this skill upgraded past 1 on any pet, but I would be interested to hear if it is effective. I'm not sure if it increases the effect duration.

kamelot07 wrote:And, what would you say to my combo of pantera+red pixie? Or, what would you think of pantera+chicken?

Sounds OK except the pixie will get the first hit and draw aggro, taking the first hit or two of every mob. This pretty much eliminates the reason for having a high defense tanking pet, because you will be healing big hits to a squishy target half the time. Depends on what you're fighting. Dungeon mobs are going to be pretty mean to your pixie. With a chicken it may be the same thing because of the chicken's ranged attack spam it gets during evo 2. I would say put the poultry as your tank and have the pantera DD support. With my pantera's run speed maxed he gets to mobs FAST with hunter armor (170 run speed @ Evo 3 + hunter armor -- faster than ornitho with huna buff). This will bring you a lot of damage very quickly, and I think you would be pleased with how the poultry performs. It has an agility and defense passive, so right away it is a little tougher than the pantera who has a defense and speed passive.

kamelot07 wrote:Also, what cards would you suggest prioritizing? I have quite a few cards at +2, and have creature heal ready to go +3 when I get another ancient cube (I have 3 +2 cards), and Organic Resist and Divine Claw are next on my list. Do you have any suggestions on what I should try to get to +3 next?

I would get Organic and Divine claw up first. I don't use creature heal too often unless I'm in a pinch because of the amount of mp it draws. +2 should be fine. I certainly would not spend an ancient cube on it. Save that for your most important skills (support, boost, organic resist, divine claw).
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 10th, 2008, 7:57 pm

To start, thanks for putting this much scrutiny into reading my guide I appreciate all criticism especially when you've given me a lot to support your arguments. Some stuff I tweaked, some I'll stand behind. I hope the critiques keep coming.

lazarillodtormes wrote:Really nice guide, but I have a few minor issues with some of the points.
The Breeder can be quite an expensive class to play.

That's a fallacy, you get out the product of your effort put in. A breeder only needs one good weapon and one good armour piece, both of them go to your tank pet. Your second pet can have crappy armour and a merely reasonable weapon, the same with you the breeder - pimping summoner armour yields a fairly small benefit, meaning you save money, your personal damage should be less than your pet, meaning you save money on upgrading that mace. Warrior classes can spend outrageous amounts of money on their armour and weapons - ESPECIALLY TANKS. A breeder's orc/tortus/yeti can achieve much higher pdef than a tank class with inferior equipment simply because of passives and breeder toggles/buffs as such a breeder can solo easily without crazy equipment or higher level pets. Also Tortus (tank) + Poultry/Pantera (dd) is an extremely viable dual-summon combo, unlike some classes a breeder doesn't need a blue pixie to survive (sin/sh) or a red pixie to do any damage (DM/CM/WL).

I agree you get out what you put in. Poultry and Turtles are some of the best pets I can think of, and there is a lot of nonsense to a lot of people thinking that common pets are somehow godly compared to NPC pets.

Given that the Breeder can go where no other class can go, you do get out what you put in, and upgrading 3 sets of gear takes a lot of money. Anyone can DP with crap gear and no one will know the difference. When it gets down to business and you start thinking about making your Breeder perform, yes it does take money. When you hit a new rank that's 3 new sets of armor and weapons. Not everyone is going to +11 their weapon, and not all tanks do, so I don't think it's a good comparison to pit a half-upgraded breeder against a pimped out soldier and say that the Breeder is more affordable.

As far as maximizing the class is concerned, pet classes are the most expensive, and have the most potential for spending to upgrade gear. I'll stand by that statement. I mention in the Guide that it is possible to play a Breeder on a budget. I think that is what you are getting at. Both statements are true. For playing on a budget the Breeder probably gets decent mileage compared to any class. For maximizing the class, the Breeder is indeed expensive.

lazarillodtormes wrote:
Shields will provide a little extra p. defense

They add no pdef, only Block Defence (when they successfully block, which is relatively rare given the lack of shield mastery)

I'll update this. Thanks for the tip.

lazarillodtormes wrote:
Pet heals will be significantly less as well

I personally don't ascribe to this theory, in E3 yes matk was a significant factor in heals, but there is a minimal difference in heal amount even between a 1h mace and a 2h staff in E4. Spells of all kinds in E4 use only a small portion of matk to calculate their power.

1/3 int goes into the calculation somewhere.. per tic or on the heal or whatever.. somewhere in there. When I tried playing a spell Breeder when Epic 4 came out and switched to a melee Breeder the lower pet heals was one of the biggest adjustments to make for me. A staff with int stones will heal a LOT more than a 1h mace. I don't need to do this any more because my gear is top notch now, but back in the days when I was scrapping it through with my trusty tortus, a staff helped. Around mid-R4, it was not nessesary as the boost kicked in and helped a bundle. I also had a staff available due to my attempt at a spell Breeder. I'm not sure every Breeder wants to spend to have an extra weapon, but for some Breeders who say "I tried and still can't cut it" this is a way to squeeze the last little juice out of your build. If a mace works, then that is all you need. If you have to make a far stretch this may help.

lazarillodtormes wrote:
Turtles are the best of the NPC-purchasable pets

Best pdef-tank yes, but they are a 2 trick pony unfortunately, they buff and they tank extremely well, but for other aspects of the game other pets outshine them.

I kind of knew this one would get some flak as a blanket statement. Chickens are the latest pet to surprise me with their flexibility, but the defense buff puts it hands down on the turtle. The attack passive pulls its weight too, though the chicken does have a nice toggle and spam attack later on. I'll stand by this. Pantera has been one of the most lackluster pets besides yeti. I do think that for my build it works very well as a support pet, but I do not see it as a very good tank (main) pet compared to a turtle or chicken.

lazarillodtormes wrote:
The Yeti is another good tanking pet

I used to think so too, but the higher my yeti gets, the more I see him as a healer/cc'er/support pet that can tank an add if I get into trouble when soloing - orcs and tortuses are by far the best pdef (pet) tanks in the game. Don't get me wrong however, my yeti is my support dd of choice because he offers so much more skillswise than a pure high pdef dd like an orc.

It's a good tanking pet as far as taking the least damage possible. If I had one I was going to use I would use it as a support pet too and go for a pet with more damage to be the main tank. If you have a turtle to buff this guy, he will have more defense than a turtle most of the time (the turtle has some toggles that work some of the time but I usually go with base defense). The yeti gets vit and defense as its main passives, and commons typically have slightly beefier stats at higher Evos than basics. Regardless, yes, the yeti is a good tanker. He takes hits like a champ. The rest is open for debate.

lazarillodtormes wrote:
O.B. Stats give the least benefit per JP point of any pet skill, so consider this last.

This is not 100% true for agility on a Poultry/skeleton/siren where +10 agility can add +10 evasion in evo 2, and more in evo 3. An evasion tank needs Blessing of Agility imo especially if you are using it against higher level mobs where every ounce of evasion you can squeeze out will be worthwhile. If your poultry/skel/siren isn't tanking then this blessing is unnecessary though nice just to see how high you can push it's evasion :D

They do yield the least benefit per JP in most cases. I was under the impression that eva = 1/2 agi + level, with each evo of the agility passive for poultry/skeleton/siren adding 30% additional bonus to either agility or evasion. Have you tried this to get +10 eva for +10 agi? Either way, If the O.B. skills fit into your build, more power to you. They do give the least stat benifit of any stat-increasing skill you can learn, though. I think you're splitting hairs on this one for a guide that is meant for beginner Breeders. If the Breeder is down to perfecting his builds and tweaking stats, this guide is a little basic, and he can probably figure out what to do on his own.
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby fionnmaccumhaill » February 11th, 2008, 10:48 am

cammy537 wrote:To start, thanks for putting this much scrutiny into reading my guide I appreciate all criticism especially when you've given me a lot to support your arguments. Some stuff I tweaked, some I'll stand behind. I hope the critiques keep coming.

It's a great guide and it gave me a lot of food for thought

so I don't think it's a good comparison to pit a half-upgraded breeder against a pimped out soldier and say that the Breeder is more affordable.

Thats not exactly what I was aiming at, the thread of my argument is based on the fact that pets get percentage based passives which begin to make them overpowered at higher levels in evo 2. Players get static passives so they progress in a more regular fashion. Not only that but evo 3 pets are supposed to be complemented by 3rd job classes, however we still don't have 3rd jobs, meaning that evo 3 pets are currently overpowered in comparison to R5+ players. As such the passives and toggles/buffs which Breeders and Sorcs get make pets ridiculously powerful at higher levels, while the ability to have 2 of those beasts out all the time is well.... As such, I'm simply saying that a breeder can achieve ridiculously high pdef/patk/evasion/etc. on their pets at a fraction of the cost that is required by say a tanking or dding class to get the same numbers.
but the defense buff puts it hands down on the turtle

I know this a kind of a "wait and see" comment, but according to information from Golladan, poultries get a defence buff at level 120 or 125. Obviously the statement is meaningless really since that is a ridiculously high level while the tortus gets it's buff at an extremely achievable level for any player, but I'd like to stick around long enough to get that buff.
It's a good tanking pet as far as taking the least damage possible

I have looked into this and I find that my orc has higher pdef than my yeti not by much, but it's there. Orcs and tortuses get Armory Unit which boosts their pdef by 5% and that includes buffs so every pdef buff they get is more efficient by 5% than on any player or other pet. Yetis have ridiculously high hp but they take more damage than orcs or tortuses, thats why I prefer to have my orc tanking, since he is easier to heal and does more damage due to Holy Warrior Unit (again a 5% boost, this time to patk and it is also cumulative with buffs) and Fist of Titan.
Yetis get Bloody Unit (max hp %age increase) and Vital Unit (which supposedly increases hp regen by a %age but I didn't notice any difference when I got it) meaning that perhaps in evo 3 they will be able to regen damage as they take it, but as far as level 89 goes my yeti is a much better support pet than a tank.
They do yield the least benefit per JP in most cases. I was under the impression that eva = 1/2 agi + level, with each evo of the agility passive for poultry/skeleton/siren adding 30% additional bonus to either agility or evasion. Have you tried this to get +10 eva for +10 agi?

Yeah I was pleasantly surprised, I decided to build my poultry as a support only pet so I only invested in level 10 of the defence passive. With level 20 agilent movement, so when he pulls aggro he will be able to dodge just enough to survive a few seconds with aggro. I'm maximising his attacks and debuffs so I have no spare jp for much defence.

After I got him to evo 2 and maxed Agilent Movement, I tried adding 1 jp to blessing of Agility and it had no effect on his evasion. So disappointed I added another jp, expecting to get a boost of 1, but it actually boosted his evasion by 2, so I went on adding more and by level 10 BoA he had 10 more evasion. Bear in mind that I had already maxed out Creature Mastery and Agilent movement (for evo 2) so if you haven't maxed those out you will get less impressive results. When he gets to evo 3 the benefit of BoA will be further boosted by Agilent Movement going to level 30. With 3 R3 agility stones and level 20 Agilent Movement, level 10 Blessing of Agility, my level 74 chicken has 193 evasion, dex stones and shrewd eyes gives him more accuracy than me, despite the fact that he is 16 levels behind me still. Just to compare an Assassin friend of mine level 92 has 195 evasion with a full agility/vit build, and my chicken gets 1 or 2 evasion every time he levels up.
I think you're splitting hairs on this one for a guide that is meant for beginner Breeders

I agree completely, in my defence I will say that agility on a pet that gets Agilent Movement, is the one exception in which a Blessing is actually extremely powerful, because it is working off percentage multipliers. Similarly Blessing of Vitality, is useful for a yeti, since it compliments Vitality Increase, Bloody Unit and Vital Unit (if it actually works that is) - and this is a breeder guide so pet passives actually do a lot of good due to eventually having level 20 Creature mastery.

But as you said, my comments are often somewhat in depth for a beginners guide. If you have plans to expand it or include an advanced section, I'd be happy to contribute what I can. Also if you plan to add information on the effect of carding breeder skills I could help there also, since that gives people a sense of the actual worth of a card before they buy it.
Image
Bahamut Server

~Flame away, just don't expect me to stroke your e-peen in return~
fionnmaccumhaill
Genie
 
Posts: 1184
Joined: March 24th, 2007, 11:39 am

Re: The Breeder's Guide

Postby cammy537 » February 11th, 2008, 2:18 pm

I have played around with the idea of making an advanced dungeon crawler's guide, but for now I think that I'll leave it at the basics. You have to play the class enough to get to the point of soloing dungeons proficiently that by the time you are doing that, you don't really need a guide. Most Breeders at that level either have the skill to push it or don't and a guide won't change their skill, can't change the gear and pets they have, etc. Most will have a style developed by then.

The majority of the discussion on this forum centers around basic issues. I hope that between the Guide and F.A.Q. that new Breeders can find and solve all of their early troubles and the forum can open up for more interesting discussion.

You're right. By having maxed creature mastery giving the skills +30% effect and having +66% additional effect (evo 2 agility skill for poultry, etc.) you are getting about a +100% boost to agility per point of O.B. Agility.
Like many other players, I've been hacked. All my pets are gone. No one else IRL uses my computer. I scan for viruses. Cheers Rappelz. It's been fun. Thanks everyone for a great time. 5/20/2011.
User avatar
cammy537
Death Tyrant
 
Posts: 2944
Joined: March 8th, 2007, 8:22 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Next

Return to Deva